Camellias are shrubs prized for winter and early-spring flowers. The University of Florida (UF/IFAS) says Camellia japonica does best in partial shade and sasanqua types tolerate full sun, while the Royal Horticultural Society notes sasanquas flower from late autumn through winter and japonicas from late winter to early spring.
Camellia at a glance
| Type | Flower |
|---|---|
| Season | Perennial |
| Sun | Partial shade |
| Plant spacing | 60 in |
| Row spacing | 60 in |
| Per square foot | 1 |
| Seed depth | At surface |
| Days to maturity | Blooms late autumn to early spring, depending on species |
| How to start | Plant camellia in acidic soil (pH 5.0–6.5) in partial shade with the root ball 1–2 inches above grade, water through summer when buds form and prune only after flowering |
| Water | 1 in per week |
These are the same numbers our plant spacing, square foot and harvest date calculators use. See every crop in the plant database.
When to plant camellia
The RHS says to plant in autumn or spring, with autumn best while soil is still warm; UF/IFAS gives November to February for its climate. Pruning is rarely needed, and when it is, do it right after flowering: UF/IFAS warns that late-summer or fall pruning removes flower buds. Check your growing zone.
How to plant camellia
- Soil: acidic, pH 5.0–6.5 (UF/IFAS); the RHS says acid soil below pH 7 and suggests that if rhododendrons grow well, camellias will too. On alkaline soil use a container with ericaceous compost.
- Planting: dig a hole 2 to 3 times wider and slightly shallower than the root ball and leave the root ball 1 to 2 inches above the soil line. In sandy soil, mix 3 to 6 inches of organic matter into the top 12 inches.
- Spacing: at least 5 feet apart (UF/IFAS); the RHS allows 10 to 15 feet per plant at maturity. Mulch 2 to 3 inches deep, off the trunk. See the plant spacing calculator.
- Shelter: choose a spot away from cold winds and, per the RHS, early-morning sun.
Caring for camellia
Water new plants as needed for their first 18 months, and keep plants well watered through summer, when next year’s flower buds form (RHS). UF/IFAS suggests 1 inch every 10 to 14 days in extended dry periods and 1 inch per week during flowering. See the garden watering calculator.
Feed lightly once or twice a year; the RHS says not to feed after the end of July because late or excessive feeding can cause bud drop. Magnesium deficiency is the most common nutritional problem (UF/IFAS).
Tea scale, aphids and spider mites are the main pests; see the pest identifier.
Companion plants
| Grow nearby | Rhododendrons and azaleas, which share the acidic-soil needs |
|---|---|
| Keep apart | Alkaline soil, cold winds, early-morning sun on frosted buds, and poorly drained wet spots |
Camellias in containers need ericaceous compost; the RHS prefers rainwater in hard-water areas. Check other pairings with the companion plant finder.
Common problems
| Problem | What you see | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Bud drop | Buds fall in winter or spring | The RHS links bud drop to not watering through summer, and to late or excessive feeding. UF/IFAS also describes bullnosing: tight buds that do not open when growth starts before flowering ends. |
| Scale, aphids or mites | Sticky honeydew, sooty mold, curled leaves or stippling | Tea scale is the most common scale (UF/IFAS); check leaf undersides. See the pest identifier. |
| Dieback or root rot | Dying branches or wilting plants | UF/IFAS says to remove diseased branches about 6 inches below the lowest symptoms and sterilize tools; root rot comes from poor drainage and overwatering. |
| Leaf and bud gall | Swollen, distorted leaves in cool spring weather | Pinch off and destroy affected leaves (UF/IFAS). |
Not sure what you are looking at? The plant problem identifier ranks likely causes from the symptoms you see.
When and how to harvest
Camellias are grown for ornament, not harvest. Deadhead faded flowers to keep the plant tidy; the RHS says this does not significantly improve next spring’s flowering. Propagate from semi-ripe cuttings in July–September or hardwood cuttings from mid-autumn to late winter; seedlings usually do not come true.
Plan your camellia
- Plant spacing calculator: how many plants fit your bed
- Planting calendar: sowing and transplant dates for your frost dates
- Frost dates by ZIP code: your last spring and first fall frost
- Harvest date calculator: when your crop will be ready
Frequently asked questions
How far apart should I plant camellias?
Space camellias 60 inches apart in rows 60 inches apart. In a square foot garden, plant 1 per square foot.
How deep do I plant camellia plant?
Leave the root ball 1 to 2 inches above the soil line (UF/IFAS).
How long do camellias take to grow?
Flowering season runs late autumn to early spring depending on species: sasanqua late autumn–winter, japonica and williamsii from late winter–early spring (RHS).
How much water do camellias need?
About 1 inch of water a week, from rain and watering combined. Keep well watered through summer when buds form; about 1 inch weekly during flowering (UF/IFAS).
Why are my camellia buds dropping?
Commonly from not watering through summer, or late or excessive feeding; bullnosing is another cause.
When should I prune camellia?
Right after flowering. Pruning in late summer or fall removes flower buds.
What soil do camellias need?
Acidic soil, pH 5.0–6.5 (UF/IFAS), well drained.