Pothos, also called golden pothos or devil’s ivy (Epipremnum aureum), is a trailing vine that tolerates a wide range of indoor conditions. Penn State Extension says vines reach 8 to 10 feet or longer, with leaves 3 to 6 inches long, and that it is long-lived. Wisconsin Extension notes it is hardy only in USDA zones 10 to 12, so it is grown indoors or as an annual in colder regions. All parts are mildly toxic to people and pets because of calcium oxalate crystals (Penn State, Clemson).
Pothos at a glance
| Type | Houseplant |
|---|---|
| Season | Perennial |
| Sun | Bright indirect light |
| Plant spacing | 12 in |
| Row spacing | 12 in |
| Per square foot | 1 |
| Seed depth | At surface |
| Days to maturity | Cuttings root in about 3–4 weeks; fast-growing, long-lived vine |
| How to start | Give pothos bright indirect light and an airy, well-draining mix, let the soil dry between thorough waterings, and keep it away from pets and children because every part is mildly toxic |
| Water | 1 in per week |
These are the same numbers our plant spacing, square foot and harvest date calculators use. See every crop in the plant database.
When to plant pothos
Pothos is a year-round houseplant. Take stem cuttings from spring through summer (Penn State) and repot in spring. If you move plants outdoors for the summer, bring them inside before nights drop; Clemson suggests nights of 60 to 70°F and days of 70 to 85°F as ideal. Use your frost dates to time the move.
How to plant pothos
- Light: moderate to bright, indirect light; direct sun yellows leaves, and low light dulls variegation (Penn State). Rotate the container weekly for balanced growth.
- Soil: an airy, well-draining soilless potting mix (Penn State, Clemson).
- Temperature and humidity: 60 to 80°F room temperatures suit it (Penn State); keep it away from air conditioner and heating vents. Clemson prefers 50 to 70% humidity but says typical home humidity of 30 to 60% is tolerated.
- Support: a moss pole or rod mimics its climbing habit and can produce larger leaves (Clemson); hanging baskets work well with regular pruning.
Caring for pothos
Watering: water when the soil is dry, then water thoroughly so moisture reaches all roots. Penn State says it is “better kept too dry than too wet”; overwatering causes root rot, its main problem, while underwatering causes only temporary drooping. See the garden watering calculator and the overwatering checker.
Feeding: sources differ: Penn State says balanced houseplant food monthly in winter and every 2 weeks the rest of the year, Clemson says every other month in spring and summer, and Wisconsin says about every 2 months, skipping winter. Follow the product label and use the lighter schedule if unsure; salt buildup from too much fertilizer can blacken leaf tips.
Repotting and pruning: repot every 1 to 2 years when roots show through the drainage holes (Clemson), or annually in spring into a slightly larger pot (Penn State). Cut vines with sharp scissors just above a node. Watch for spider mites, mealybugs and scale; see the pest identifier and the yellow leaf identifier.
Companion plants
| Grow nearby | Hanging baskets, shelves and moss poles in moderate to bright indirect light |
|---|---|
| Keep apart | Direct sun, soggy soil, air conditioner vents and cold drafts |
Keep away from children and pets; all parts contain calcium oxalate, which irritates the mouth and digestive tract. Check other pairings with the companion plant finder.
Common problems
| Problem | What you see | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Yellow leaves | Leaves turn yellow | Overwatering or low fertility are the usual causes (Clemson); direct sun can also yellow them. See the yellow leaf identifier. |
| Root rot | Soft stems, black roots and drooping that does not recover | Overwatering or poor drainage; let the soil dry between waterings. |
| Leaf scorch or dry tips | Brown, crispy tips or patches | Low humidity, intense light or salt buildup from fertilizer (Clemson, Wisconsin); move away from direct sun and vents. |
| Variegation fades | White and yellow patterns turn green | Low light dulls variegation; move to brighter indirect light. |
Not sure what you are looking at? The plant problem identifier ranks likely causes from the symptoms you see.
When and how to harvest
Pothos propagates easily from stem cuttings, each with at least one node, rooted in soil or water; roots form in 3 to 4 weeks (Wisconsin). Root division during annual repotting and layering also work (Penn State). Safety: contact with the sap can irritate skin, and eating it causes mouth burning, vomiting and difficulty swallowing; keep it out of reach of pets and children.
Plan your pothos
- Plant spacing calculator: how many plants fit your bed
- Planting calendar: sowing and transplant dates for your frost dates
- Frost dates by ZIP code: your last spring and first fall frost
- Harvest date calculator: when your crop will be ready
Frequently asked questions
How far apart should I plant pothos plants?
Space pothos plants 12 inches apart in rows 12 inches apart. In a square foot garden, plant 1 per square foot.
How deep do I plant pothos plant?
Plant at the same depth as in its previous pot, in an airy well-draining mix, and root cuttings with at least one node.
How long do pothos plants take to grow?
Cuttings root in about 3 to 4 weeks; it is a long-lived, fast-growing vine.
How much water do pothos plants need?
About 1 inch of water a week, from rain and watering combined. Water when the soil is dry, then thoroughly; better too dry than too wet.
How often should I water pothos?
When the soil is dry, then thoroughly; Penn State says it is better kept too dry than too wet.
Is pothos toxic to cats and dogs?
Yes, all parts are mildly toxic because of calcium oxalate crystals; keep it away from pets and children.
How do I propagate pothos?
Root stem cuttings with at least one node in soil or water; roots form in about 3 to 4 weeks.