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Strawberries: How to Plant, Grow and Harvest

Strawberries: How to Plant, Grow and Harvest
Photo: Ivar Leidus · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Strawberries are perennial plants that crop for several years, and homegrown berries picked fully ripe are far sweeter than store-bought. They grow in beds, raised beds, containers and hanging baskets. Choosing the right type, planting at the right depth and keeping beds weeded and renewed are the keys. This page covers types, planting, care, runners and harvest.

Strawberry at a glance

TypeFruit
SeasonPerennial
SunFull sun
Plant spacing12 in
Row spacing36 in
Per square foot1
Seed depthAt surface
Days to maturityMain crop in year two
How to startPlant crowns in early spring, crown level with the soil
Water1 in per week

These are the same numbers our plant spacing, square foot and harvest date calculators use. See every crop in the plant database.

When to plant strawberries

Plant bare-root crowns or potted plants in early spring, as soon as the soil can be worked, usually 2 to 4 weeks before your last spring frost. In mild-winter regions, strawberries are often planted in fall for a spring crop. Cover open flowers if a hard frost is forecast, because frost kills the blossoms.

Choose your type first. June-bearing plants give one large crop in late spring or early summer. Everbearing plants give a crop in early summer and another in late summer or fall. Day-neutral plants fruit on and off all season while temperatures are mild. Check your frost dates with the frost dates by ZIP code tool.

How to plant strawberries

  • Choose full sun and well-drained soil. Mix in compost. Strawberries prefer slightly acidic soil, around pH 5.5 to 6.8. Raised beds work well in heavy soil.
  • Plant at the right depth. Set each crown so its middle is level with the soil surface, roots spread out and pointing down. A buried crown rots; exposed roots dry out.
  • Space for runners. Use the spacing in the table above. June-bearers send out many runners and fill in the row; day-neutral and everbearing types make fewer.
  • Rotate. Avoid ground where tomatoes, peppers, potatoes or eggplant grew recently, which can carry Verticillium wilt.

Caring for strawberries

Give about an inch of water a week, more while fruit is forming, and water at the base so fruit and leaves stay dry. Mulch with straw to keep berries clean, hold moisture and suppress weeds. The garden watering calculator turns this into gallons.

In the first year, pinch off flowers on June-bearing plants so they build strong roots, and pinch flowers on everbearing and day-neutral plants until midsummer. Trim extra runners to keep rows from crowding. After harvest, renew June-bearing beds by mowing or cutting off old leaves, thinning plants and feeding. In cold regions, cover plants with 3 to 4 inches of straw once they go dormant in late fall. Replace beds every 3 to 4 years as yields decline.

Companion plants

Grow nearbyLettuce, spinach, onions, chives, borage, bush beans
Keep apartCabbage-family crops; ground where tomatoes, potatoes, peppers or eggplant grew recently

Lettuce and spinach make good edging, and chives and onions are said to help deter pests. Borage attracts bees, improving pollination. Check other pairings with the companion plant finder.

Common problems

ProblemWhat you seeWhat to do
SlugsHoles eaten into ripe berriesHand-pick at dusk, use beer traps or iron phosphate bait, and keep fruit on straw. See the pest identifier.
Gray moldFuzzy gray mold on berries, especially in wet weatherSpace plants, mulch with straw, water at the base and pick often. Remove moldy fruit.
BirdsBerries pecked or disappear as they ripenCover beds with bird netting as berries begin to color.
Small or misshapen berriesLumpy berries with seedy endsPoor pollination or tarnished plant bugs. Encourage bees and keep weeds down.
Crown rotPlants wilt and die; crown is brown insidePlant crowns at the right depth in well-drained soil. The overwatering checker helps rule out soggy soil.

Not sure what you are looking at? The plant problem identifier ranks likely causes from the symptoms you see, and our guide to planting bare-root strawberries goes into more detail.

When and how to harvest

Pick strawberries when they are fully red all over, including the tip and shoulders. They do not ripen further after picking. Pick every 2 to 3 days during the season, in the morning while berries are cool and dry. Pinch the stem just above the berry so the green cap stays on, which helps it keep.

Do not wash berries until just before eating. Store them unwashed in the fridge in a single layer, and use within a few days. Remove any damaged or moldy berries as you pick so disease does not spread.

Plan your strawberries

Frequently asked questions

How far apart should I plant strawberries?

Space strawberries 12 inches apart in rows 36 inches apart. In a square foot garden, plant 1 per square foot.

How deep do I plant strawberry plants?

Strawberries are planted as crowns, not seeds. Set each crown so its middle is level with the soil surface, with the roots spread out below. A buried crown rots, and exposed roots dry out.

How long do strawberries take to grow?

June-bearing strawberries give their main crop in the second year, after you remove the first year's flowers. Everbearing and day-neutral types give a light crop in their first summer and fall.

How much water do strawberries need?

About 1 inch of water a week, from rain and watering combined. Water at the base and mulch with straw to keep berries clean and dry.

Should I remove strawberry flowers in the first year?

For June-bearing plants, yes: pinching off first-year flowers builds stronger plants and a bigger crop the next year. For everbearing and day-neutral types, pinch flowers until midsummer, then let them fruit.

What is the difference between June-bearing and everbearing strawberries?

June-bearing plants give one large crop in late spring or early summer. Everbearing plants give two smaller crops, in early summer and late summer or fall.