Honeyberry, also called haskap or blue honeysuckle (Lonicera caerulea), is a very cold-hardy shrub with dark blue, elongated berries. Utah State University Extension says cultivars range from 4 to 6 feet tall, flowers tolerate spring frosts down to 19°F, and plants struggle in climates warmer than zone 6.
Honeyberry (Haskap) at a glance
| Type | Fruit |
|---|---|
| Season | Perennial |
| Sun | Full sun |
| Plant spacing | 42 in |
| Row spacing | 90 in |
| Per square foot | 1 |
| Seed depth | At surface |
| Days to maturity | Few berries at first; production rises by year 3–4 |
| How to start | Plant two different honeyberry (haskap) varieties that bloom together, in full sun and well-drained soil, 3–4 feet apart, ideally in fall, and net the crop against birds |
| Water | 1 in per week |
These are the same numbers our plant spacing, square foot and harvest date calculators use. See every crop in the plant database.
When to plant honeyberry
Fall is the best planting time, though dormant plants can go in during spring (Utah State). Flowers appear in early spring, the fruit changes color in late May or early June and is typically ready a few weeks later, ripening just before strawberries. Check your zone with the growing zone finder and your frost dates.
How to plant honeyberry
- Pollination: plants need cross-pollination with a different, unrelated cultivar that blooms at the same time. Many nursery plants are Russian types sold as honeyberries, so confirm compatibility before buying.
- Spacing: 3 to 4 feet apart within rows and 6 to 10 feet between rows (Utah State). See the plant spacing calculator.
- Site and soil: sunny site; well-drained soil, though it adapts to many types and tolerates alkaline soil up to pH 7.7. University of Wisconsin gives pH 5.0 to 7.0 and full sun. Test the soil, add organic matter and clear perennial weeds first.
- Planting: water thoroughly after planting to remove air pockets around the roots. In high-elevation areas, protect from drying summer winds and late afternoon sun to prevent sunscald.
Caring for honeyberry
Keep soil moist but not soggy, especially while establishing. Haskap is not drought tolerant. Deep watering every 5 to 7 days, depending on soil, encourages deep roots; drip irrigation keeps leaves dry. See the garden watering calculator.
Feeding: apply nitrogen in spring only, since late-season feeding can cause winter injury; Utah State suggests about ½ cup of a balanced fertilizer such as 16-16-16 per plant. Pruning: prune annually in late winter while dormant. For the first 3 to 4 years remove only dead, diseased or crossing branches; later thin the oldest branches and never remove more than 25% of the plant in a year.
Few pests affect the fruit. Powdery mildew can appear in late summer; plant resistant cultivars and prune for airflow. Deer generally leave plants alone. Birds can cause significant losses, so net plants in late May or early June.
Companion plants
| Grow nearby | Another compatible honeyberry cultivar that blooms at the same time |
|---|---|
| Keep apart | Late-season nitrogen, soggy soil and drought |
Sources do not list companion plants. Check other pairings with the companion plant finder.
Common problems
| Problem | What you see | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| No fruit | Flowers but few or no berries | Plants need a different, compatible cultivar blooming at the same time for cross-pollination; confirm compatibility when buying. |
| Bird damage | Berries disappear before harvest | Birds can cause significant losses; net plants in late May or early June. |
| White patches on leaves | Late-summer white patches that turn brown | This is powdery mildew, which rarely affects berries; use resistant cultivars and prune for airflow. See the pest identifier. |
Not sure what you are looking at? The plant problem identifier ranks likely causes from the symptoms you see.
When and how to harvest
Pick by hand, or shake certain cultivars onto a tarp. Some cultivars “bleed” from the picking scar and store for a shorter time. Expect only a few berries in the first few years; production increases by year 3 or 4, and mature plants can yield 5 to 15 pounds per year depending on cultivar (Utah State). Berries are good fresh and in pies, jams, jellies, juices and ice cream, and can be frozen or dried.
Plan your honeyberry
- Plant spacing calculator: how many plants fit your bed
- Planting calendar: sowing and transplant dates for your frost dates
- Frost dates by ZIP code: your last spring and first fall frost
- Harvest date calculator: when your crop will be ready
Frequently asked questions
How far apart should I plant honeyberries?
Space honeyberries 42 inches apart in rows 90 inches apart. In a square foot garden, plant 1 per square foot.
How deep do I plant honeyberry plant?
Plant at the same depth it grew in the nursery pot; the sources give no specific depth.
How long do honeyberries take to grow?
Expect a few berries in the first years; production increases by year 3 or 4.
How much water do honeyberries need?
About 1 inch of water a week, from rain and watering combined. Not drought tolerant; deep water every 5–7 days.
Do I need two honeyberry plants?
Yes, you need a different, compatible cultivar blooming at the same time for cross-pollination.
How far apart do I plant honeyberries?
3 to 4 feet apart in rows, with 6 to 10 feet between rows.
How do I stop birds eating the berries?
Net the plants in late May or early June.