
Crop suggested by W.carter, thank you! · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Pears are long-lived fruit trees that reward patience and the right variety. Standard trees on seedling rootstock usually reach 25 to 40 feet, and Minnesota Extension says most recommended varieties are hardy to USDA zone 4 and that trees take 3 to 10 years to begin fruiting. Fire blight is the main disease: Illinois Extension says it limits pear production in that state, and Georgia notes that humid regions suffer more. Choose a variety suited to your region, because advice differs sharply between the north and the South.
Pear at a glance
| Type | Fruit |
|---|---|
| Season | Perennial |
| Sun | Full sun |
| Plant spacing | 240 in |
| Row spacing | 240 in |
| Per square foot | 1 per 100 sq ft |
| Seed depth | 1 in |
| Days to maturity | 3 to 10 years to first fruit; harvest Aug–Oct from planting |
| How to start | Plant two compatible pear varieties in full sun and well-drained soil, prune lightly in late winter, watch for fire blight, and pick the fruit hard and ripen it indoors |
| Water | 1 in per week |
These are the same numbers our plant spacing, square foot and harvest date calculators use. See every crop in the plant database.
When to plant pear
Minnesota Extension says to plant bare-root trees in April or May, as soon as the soil can be worked, and potted trees in May or June after the frost threat passes. Pears bloom one to several weeks before apples (Georgia), so spring frost is a bigger risk; choose a site with good air drainage. Use your frost dates and the growing zone finder to check your zone first, and the planting calendar for timing.
How to plant pear
- Site and soil: full sun, away from structures and other trees, with morning sun to dry dew (Georgia). Minnesota says soil pH 6 to 7 and well drained; Georgia targets pH 5.9 to 6.5. Do a soil test first.
- Spacing: Georgia says to plant 20 feet apart. Minnesota does not give a spacing; tree size depends on rootstock, from about 15 feet for a small variety to 25 to 40 feet for standard trees. See the plant spacing calculator.
- Planting: dig a hole no deeper than the root ball and about twice as wide, mix up to one third organic matter into the backfill and add no fertilizer to the hole, remove encircling or J-shaped roots, set the graft union 2 to 4 inches above the soil line, and stake the tree (Minnesota).
- Pollination: most varieties need a compatible pollinator, so plant two or rely on a neighbor’s tree. Some varieties (such as Gourmet and Luscious) cannot pollinate others (Minnesota), and Waite and Magness produce sterile pollen (Georgia). Check pollination pairings before buying.
Caring for pear
Watering: water new trees weekly in the first year, then water deeply from May through October in dry spells; overwatering also harms trees (Minnesota). Keep a 3 to 4 inch mulch layer a few inches away from the trunk. See the garden watering calculator and the mulch calculator.
Feeding: most trees need no fertilizer in the planting year. Minnesota says nitrogen is the only nutrient likely to limit growth and that 18 to 24 inches of new growth a year is adequate; Georgia suggests 1 cup of 10-10-10 per year of tree age (maximum 12 cups), split before growth and after fruit set, and aims for about 6 inches of shoot growth on bearing trees. Excess nitrogen makes fire blight worse, so feed cautiously (Illinois, Minnesota).
Pruning: prune lightly each year in late winter or early spring, before growth starts and not during bloom or for two weeks after (Minnesota). Use a central leader with 4 or 5 scaffold branches at wide angles (60 degrees or more) about 12 inches apart. Illinois says to prune less severely than apples, because heavy pruning drives vigorous growth that is more prone to fire blight.
Pests and disease: fire blight shows as shoots curled like a shepherd’s crook; cut diseased shoots at least 6 inches below discolored bark and disinfect tools between cuts (Minnesota, Georgia), and note that sprays will not cure infected branches (Georgia). Resistance varies by variety. Japanese beetles, voles, rabbits and deer can be problems; use trunk guards and fencing. See the pest identifier.
Companion plants
| Grow nearby | Another compatible pear variety nearby for pollination, a mulched circle under the tree, and clover or low plantings that do not compete for water |
|---|---|
| Keep apart | Overfertilizing with nitrogen, heavy pruning, and planting a single sterile-pollen variety on its own |
Check pollen compatibility before buying, because pairings differ by variety. Check other pairings with the companion plant finder.
Common problems
| Problem | What you see | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Shoots curled like a crook, blackened leaves | Tips bend over and look scorched | Fire blight; cut at least 6 inches below the damage, disinfect tools, and avoid excess nitrogen (Minnesota, Georgia). |
| Blossoms but no fruit | Flowers set no pears | No compatible pollinator, spring frost during early bloom, or a young tree that is not yet bearing (3 to 10 years, Minnesota). |
| Gritty fruit | Hard, sandy texture in the flesh | Picked too late or ripened on the tree; pick firm and ripen indoors (Minnesota, Georgia). |
| Chewed bark | Girdled trunk in winter | Voles or rabbits; push plastic guards 2 inches into the soil or use hardware cloth (Minnesota). |
Not sure what you are looking at? The plant problem identifier ranks likely causes from the symptoms you see.
When and how to harvest
Pick pears before they are ripe: tree-ripened fruit turns gritty (Minnesota), and fruit picked too late ripens quickly and is prone to core breakdown (Georgia). Minnesota says to harvest from August to October depending on variety, picking when the skin lightens from dark green and feels waxy; Georgia says to check the skin dots, white when immature and brown and shallow when ready. Refrigerate harvested fruit, then ripen it at room temperature for a few days until it turns golden and the flesh yields to thumb pressure. Summercrisp is an exception: pick it green with a red blush and eat it without ripening (Minnesota). Trees can produce for decades; the Georgia publication cites about 50 years.
Plan your pear
- Plant spacing calculator: how many plants fit your bed
- Planting calendar: sowing and transplant dates for your frost dates
- Frost dates by ZIP code: your last spring and first fall frost
- Harvest date calculator: when your crop will be ready
Frequently asked questions
How far apart should I plant pears?
Space pears 240 inches apart in rows 240 inches apart. In a square foot garden, plant 1 per 100 sq ft.
How deep do I plant pear tree?
Dig the hole no deeper than the root ball and set the graft union 2 to 4 inches above the soil line.
How long do pears take to grow?
Expect 3 to 10 years before flowering and fruiting begins (Minnesota Extension).
How much water do pears need?
About 1 inch of water a week, from rain and watering combined. Water new trees weekly in year one, then deeply May to October in dry spells.
Do I need two pear trees?
Most varieties need a compatible pollinator, so plant two or rely on a neighbor’s tree; a few are partly self-fruitful.
Why are my pears gritty?
They were left to ripen on the tree or picked too late; pick firm and ripen indoors.
What is fire blight?
A bacterial disease that curls and blackens shoots; cut well below the damage and disinfect tools.