Monstera Care: How to Grow a Healthy Swiss Cheese Plant

By the Garden Voila editorial team · Updated October 27, 2026 · How we verify

Monstera deliciosa, the Swiss cheese plant, grows best in bright, indirect light, in a chunky, well-draining potting mix, with watering whenever the top 2 inches of soil are dry, usually every one to two weeks in summer and every two to three weeks in winter. Keep it between 65°F and 85°F, give it moderate to high humidity (40 percent or more), feed monthly with a balanced liquid fertilizer during spring and summer, and give the climbing stems a moss pole or trellis to grip. Bright light and support are what produce large leaves with the famous splits and holes; low light gives small, solid leaves and long, leggy stems. The leaves are toxic to pets if chewed.

Monstera care at a glance

What is a Monstera deliciosa?

Monstera deliciosa is a climbing tropical plant in the arum family, native to rainforests from southern Mexico to Panama. In the wild it starts life on the forest floor, then climbs tree trunks using thick aerial roots, producing larger and more deeply split leaves as it climbs toward the light. The holes and splits, called fenestrations, may help leaves withstand wind and heavy rain and let light reach lower leaves. The UConn Home and Garden Education Center fact sheet on Monstera deliciosa notes that the species name refers to its edible fruit, which tastes like a blend of pineapple and banana when fully ripe, though plants rarely fruit indoors. Monsteras sold as “split-leaf philodendron” are the same plant; true philodendrons are close relatives.

How much light does a monstera need?

Monsteras need bright, indirect light to grow large, fenestrated leaves. A spot a few feet from an east or west window, or set back from a south window, is ideal. A little gentle morning sun is fine, but hot, direct afternoon sun through glass can scorch leaves, leaving pale or brown, crispy patches. In low light, monsteras survive but produce small leaves without splits, stretch toward the window with long gaps between leaves, and are much more prone to overwatering. If your monstera’s new leaves are smaller than the old ones or lack splits, more light is usually the answer. A full-spectrum LED grow light can supplement a dim room. Rotate the plant every few weeks so it grows evenly.

How often should you water a monstera?

Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry, which is typically every one to two weeks in spring and summer and every two to three weeks in fall and winter. Larger pots, lower light and cooler rooms all mean less frequent watering. Water thoroughly until it runs from the drainage holes, then empty the saucer. Monsteras dislike both extremes: soggy soil causes yellowing leaves and root rot, while letting the pot dry out completely causes drooping and brown, crispy edges.

• Signs of overwatering: several yellow lower leaves at once, dark brown patches with yellow halos, black or mushy stems at the soil line, and a sour smell from the soil.
• Signs of underwatering: drooping, curling leaves, crispy brown edges, and soil pulling away from the pot.

See overwatering vs underwatering for more on telling them apart.

What is the best soil for a monstera?

Monsteras grow naturally among leaf litter and tree bark, so they like a chunky, airy mix that holds some moisture but drains quickly. A simple homemade aroid mix is one part quality potting mix, one part orchid bark and one part perlite, with a handful of horticultural charcoal or coco coir chips if you have them. Avoid heavy, fine potting soil on its own, which compacts and stays wet. Use a pot with drainage holes, sized just 2 inches wider than the root ball. Plastic and glazed pots hold moisture longer than terracotta, which suits monsteras in warm, bright rooms.

Does a monstera need a moss pole?

Monsteras are climbers, and giving them something to climb produces larger, more mature leaves and a neater, more upright plant. Without support, stems sprawl outward and leaves stay smaller. Options include a coir or moss pole, a wooden plank, or a sturdy trellis. Insert the support when repotting so you do not damage roots later, then tie stems loosely to it with soft plant ties or velcro, with the back of the stem (where aerial roots emerge) facing the pole. Keeping a moss pole slightly damp encourages aerial roots to grow into it. Extend the pole as the plant grows.

What about aerial roots?

The long brown roots growing from the stems are aerial roots, which help monsteras climb and absorb moisture. They are normal and healthy. You can guide them into the soil or onto a moss pole, leave them hanging, or trim a few that are in the way with clean scissors without harming the plant. Do not remove all of them, since they help support the plant.

What temperature and humidity does a monstera need?

Keep monsteras between 65°F and 85°F. Growth slows below 60°F, and temperatures below 50°F can damage leaves. Keep plants away from cold drafts, air conditioning vents, heaters and fireplaces. Monsteras appreciate humidity of 40 to 60 percent or more. In dry winter homes, group plants together, run a humidifier nearby, or place the pot on a tray of pebbles and water (with the pot above the waterline). Misting raises humidity only briefly and is not very effective. Brown, crispy leaf edges in winter often point to dry air.

How should you fertilize a monstera?

Feed every four weeks in spring and summer with a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer, such as a 20-20-20 or similar formula diluted to the strength on the label, or use a slow-release fertilizer at the start of the season. Stop feeding in fall and winter when growth slows. Pale new leaves can indicate the plant needs feeding, while white crust on the soil or brown leaf tips can mean too much fertilizer; flush the pot with plenty of water to remove excess salts.

How do you repot a monstera?

Repot young, fast-growing monsteras every year or two in spring, and mature plants every two to three years, or when roots circle the pot or grow out of the drainage holes. Choose a pot 2 inches wider than the current one. Water the day before, slide the plant out, loosen circling roots and trim any that are black or mushy. Add the moss pole first, then fresh aroid mix, and plant at the same depth as before. Water well and keep the plant out of direct sun for a week while it settles. For very large plants that are hard to repot, top-dress by replacing the top 2 inches of soil with fresh mix each spring.

How do you propagate a monstera?

Monsteras are propagated from stem cuttings that include a node, the bump on the stem where a leaf and aerial root grow. A leaf without a node will not grow into a new plant.

1. Find a stem section with at least one node, one leaf and ideally an aerial root.
2. Cut about an inch below the node with clean, sharp shears.
3. Place the cutting in a jar of water with the node submerged, or plant it directly in moist, chunky mix.
4. Keep it in bright, indirect light and change the water weekly.
5. When new roots are 2 to 3 inches long, usually in four to eight weeks, pot the cutting in aroid mix.

Air layering, wrapping a node in damp sphagnum moss and plastic while still attached to the parent, is another reliable method for large plants.

Why are there no splits in my monstera leaves?

Young monsteras naturally produce solid, heart-shaped leaves; splits usually begin to appear once a plant has produced several leaves and reached some maturity, often in its second or third year. If a mature plant produces solid leaves, the usual cause is insufficient light, followed by lack of support, underfeeding or stress from root problems. Move the plant to brighter indirect light, add a moss pole, feed during the growing season, and new leaves should gradually develop fenestrations. Existing leaves will not change; only new ones will show the improvement.

What are the most common monstera problems?

For rotting stems or mushy roots, follow our root rot guide. The University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension article on Monstera deliciosa also covers care, pests and the plant’s natural history.

Which monstera varieties are available?

• Monstera deliciosa: the classic large plant with deeply split, perforated leaves.
• Monstera deliciosa ‘Borsigiana’: a commonly sold form with slightly smaller leaves and longer gaps between leaves; care is the same.
• ‘Thai Constellation’ and ‘Albo Variegata’: variegated forms with cream or white splashes. They grow more slowly, need brighter indirect light and cost much more. White sections cannot photosynthesize and may brown.
• Monstera adansonii: the “Swiss cheese vine,” a smaller trailing species with holes rather than splits, suited to hanging baskets and shelves.
• Rhaphidophora tetrasperma: often sold as “mini monstera”; a different genus with small split leaves and fast, climbing growth.

Can monstera grow outdoors?

In USDA zones 10 to 12, monsteras grow outdoors in shade or dappled light, climbing trees and producing enormous leaves and occasional fruit. The North Carolina State Extension plant toolbox lists it as a landscape plant in frost-free areas and a houseplant elsewhere. In colder climates, plants can spend summer outdoors in shade once nights stay above 55°F; bring them back inside before temperatures drop to 50°F, checking for pests first. Never place a monstera that has been indoors straight into full sun, which will scorch its leaves.

Common monstera care mistakes

• Keeping it in a dark corner and expecting large, split leaves.
• Watering on a fixed schedule instead of checking the soil.
• Planting in dense potting soil without bark or perlite.
• Overpotting into a very large pot that stays wet.
• Cutting all the aerial roots or giving the plant nothing to climb.
• Taking leaf cuttings without a node, which will root but never grow.
• Placing it near a heater or cold window in winter.

A seasonal monstera care routine

• Spring: repot or top-dress, add or extend the moss pole, and start monthly feeding.
• Summer: water more often, wipe dust off leaves with a damp cloth so they can capture light, and take cuttings.
• Fall: stop feeding, bring outdoor plants inside and check for pests.
• Winter: water less, raise humidity and keep away from heaters and drafts.

For identifying other indoor pests and diseases, browse the plant pests and diseases library.

Monstera FAQ

References used in this guide: UConn Home and Garden Education Center, Monstera deliciosa; University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension, Monstera deliciosa; NC State Extension, Monstera deliciosa.