Loppers: Types, Sizes and How to Use Tree Loppers for Pruning

By the Garden Voila editorial team · Updated October 28, 2026 · How we verify

Loppers are long-handled pruning shears used with both hands to cut branches too thick for hand pruners, usually about ¾ inch to 1½ inches (2 to 4 cm) in diameter, and to reach deeper into shrubs and small trees. Choose bypass loppers for clean cuts on living branches, anvil loppers for dead wood, and ratchet or geared loppers if you need extra cutting power. Branches thicker than the lopper’s rated capacity call for a pruning saw. This guide covers the types, how to choose a pair, how to cut correctly, how to keep them sharp and disease-free, and what to do when loppers are the wrong tool.

Which pruning tool for which branch?

Iowa State University Extension’s guide to pruning equipment gives the standard size ranges, and it is worth memorizing them because using the wrong tool is the most common cause of ragged cuts and broken tools.

Iowa State warns that using hand pruners on branches over ¾ inch often leaves torn, jagged cuts and can damage the pruners. The same logic applies one size up: if your loppers stall, do not lean on them or bounce your body weight on the handles. Switch to a saw. Always check the maximum cutting capacity printed on your own tool, and never force a cut.

What are the types of loppers?

Bypass vs anvil: which should you buy?

Iowa State describes the two designs the same way for hand pruners and loppers. Bypass blades overlap with a scissor action and make close, clean cuts. Anvil tools have a sharpened upper blade that cuts against a flat surface; they work well on dead branches and jam less often, but they cannot cut as close and are more likely to crush stems. Iowa State says bypass is generally preferred, and for most gardeners that settles it. A crushed stem on a living plant heals slowly and can invite disease, while a clean bypass cut closes over quickly. Buy anvil loppers only if you cut a lot of dead wood, and ideally as a second pair.

Ratchet and geared loppers

Ratchet loppers let you make a thick cut in several short squeezes, which is a real help if you have arthritis or limited grip strength. The trade-off is slower cutting and, on cheap models, a mechanism that can jam with sap or grit. Geared and compound-action loppers use leverage to boost force; they are heavier, but you can feel the difference on tough wood.

Are tree loppers different from regular loppers?

“Tree loppers” usually means one of two things: long-handled loppers with handles of 30 inches (75 cm) or more for reaching into trees, or pole pruners. A pole pruner has a stationary hook and a hinged blade, operated by a rope, on a wooden or fiberglass pole, according to Iowa State. A pole saw puts a saw blade on a long pole instead. Both are rated for branches up to about 2 inches (5 cm) and let you cut overhead branches from the ground, which is safer than using loppers on a ladder.

How do you choose a good pair of loppers?

• Blade type: Bypass for general pruning; add anvil only if you cut a lot of dead wood.
• Cutting capacity: Look for a rating of about 1½ to 2 inches (4 to 5 cm). Iowa State lists ¾ to 1½ inches as the standard lopper range, so a higher rating gives you headroom.
• Handle length: About 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) for shrubs and close work; 28 to 32 inches (70 to 80 cm) or telescoping for trees.
• Weight: Aluminum or fiberglass handles are lighter and reduce fatigue over a long session. Heavier steel handles tend to be tougher but tire your arms faster.
• Blade coating: Non-stick or coated blades shed sap, but the coating wears off over time. Carbon steel holds an edge well but rusts if neglected; stainless is easier to care for but can be softer.
• Replaceable parts: Quality loppers let you replace blades, bolts and bumpers, which is often cheaper than replacing the whole tool.
• Bumpers: Shock-absorbing stops between the handles save your wrists and shoulders on every cut.

Iowa State notes that quality tools are not inexpensive but will perform better and far outlast cheaper ones when used and cared for properly. A mid-priced bypass lopper you maintain will outlast three bargain pairs.

How do you use loppers correctly?

1. Position the blade. With bypass loppers, put the cutting blade on the side of the branch that stays on the plant and the hook side on the piece you are removing, so any crushing happens to the waste.
2. Cut at the right spot. Cut just outside the branch collar, the slightly swollen ring where a branch joins a larger limb. Do not leave long stubs, and do not cut flush with the trunk.
3. Open wide and cut deep in the jaws. Place the branch as close to the pivot as possible, where leverage is greatest. The tip of the blade is the weakest part.
4. Cut in one smooth motion. Do not twist or rock the loppers, which tears bark and bends blades.
5. Support heavy pieces. Hold the waste branch with your other hand, or make a relief cut first so the limb does not tear bark as it falls.
6. Switch tools when needed. If the cut stalls, finish with a pruning saw. Iowa State recommends a saw for anything over about 1¾ inches.

What do you prune with loppers?

• Fruit trees: Water sprouts, suckers and small limbs during dormant pruning. See when to prune apple trees and when to prune peach trees.
• Figs: Thinning and shortening branches in late winter; see how to prune a fig tree.
• Cane shrubs: Removing old canes on blueberry bushes and other cane fruits, and suckers on a hazelnut.
• Overgrown shrubs and hedges: Thinning cuts down to the base to open the plant up.

How do you clean and sharpen loppers?

The University of Minnesota Extension fruit and vegetable IPM blog has a practical write-up on caring for winter pruning tools. Its advice boils down to a short routine.

Clean

Wash blades with soap and water to remove sap and debris, then dry them. If your loppers come apart, disassemble them periodically so you can reach every part of the blade. Sap left on carbon steel in a damp shed is the usual cause of rust.

Sharpen

Use a sharpening block, file or stone on rust-free blades and follow the blade’s natural bevel, which is typically 10 to 20 degrees. Bypass blades are single-beveled, so sharpen only the beveled side; anvil blades are double-beveled. Do not create a bevel where none exists. Sharpen in one direction rather than back and forth.

Remove rust

For light to moderate rust, brush with steel wool before sharpening. For serious corrosion, a wire brush or a drill with a wire-brush attachment works, finished with a lubricant. Corroded tools can be restored but not to like-new condition, and badly corroded parts can fuse together.

Oil

Keep a light film of oil on the blades and on bolts, cogs and springs. Pruning-tool lubricant, linseed oil or bicycle chain oil all work. This matters most for carbon steel blades. Store loppers dry with the blades closed.

Disinfect when pruning diseased wood

When you prune plants with bacterial or fungal disease, such as apples and pears with fire blight, disinfect the blades between cuts. The University of Minnesota lists diluted bleach, 70 percent rubbing alcohol and some household disinfectant products as options, and advises against vinegar, which can contribute to rust. Always rinse, dry and oil the blades afterward, because bleach corrodes steel. For fire blight specifics, see our guide to fire blight on pear trees.

Common lopper problems and fixes

• Cuts crush the stem: The blade is dull, the bolt is loose, or you are using anvil loppers on live wood. Sharpen, tighten, or switch to bypass.
• Blades will not close fully: A bent blade from twisting or cutting too thick a branch. Gently straighten if possible, or replace the blade.
• Loppers stick or squeak: Clean off sap and oil the pivot.
• Wrist and shoulder pain: Try lighter handles, bumpers, or a ratchet or geared model, and keep your cuts within the rated size.
• Blades chip: You hit wire, a stake or hard dead wood. Check the branch before you cut, and move to a saw for hard old wood.

Lopper safety tips

• Wear gloves and eye protection; branches spring back and chips fly.
• Prune from the ground whenever possible. Iowa State advises against working from a ladder; use a pole pruner for high branches.
• Never cut near power lines. Iowa State recommends calling a trained arborist for large high branches or limbs near utilities.
• Do not use a chainsaw for tree pruning unless you are trained. Iowa State notes chainsaws are mainly for professional arborists and are dangerous for people with little experience.
• Keep children away from the work area and store tools out of reach.

How to store loppers over winter

At the end of the season, wash off sap and soil with soap and water, dry the blades completely, and wipe on a light coat of oil. Hang loppers with the blades closed, or store them in a dry shed or garage rather than a damp outbuilding where carbon steel will rust. Check the pivot bolt before the next season: it should be snug enough that the blades do not wobble but loose enough to swing freely. Replace worn bumpers while you are at it, and note any chips or bends so you can sharpen or replace the blade before spring pruning begins. A few minutes of care in autumn saves hours of struggling with a dull, sticky tool in late winter.

Restoring an overgrown tree? Our guide to fixing a badly pruned apple tree explains which cuts to make first. For more on trees, see the home fruit tree guide.

Frequently asked questions

Reviewed October 2026. Sources: Iowa State University Extension, Guide to Pruning Equipment; University of Minnesota Extension, Caring for Winter Pruning Tools.