Strawberry Guava (Cherry Guava): How to Grow It and Why It Is Invasive

By the Garden Voila editorial team · Updated October 30, 2026 · How we verify

Strawberry guava (Psidium cattleianum), also called cattley guava or cherry guava, is an evergreen shrub or small tree with glossy leaves and small red fruits that taste like a blend of strawberry and passion fruit. It is easier to grow and more cold tolerant than the common guava, fruits within a few years and needs little care. That same toughness makes it one of the most aggressive invasive plants in Hawaii and in south Florida, so check whether it is restricted where you live before you plant it. This guide covers how to grow it responsibly, where it is a problem, and what to grow instead.

Strawberry guava key facts

What is strawberry guava?

Strawberry guava is native to coastal southeastern Brazil and has been planted around the world for its fruit and attractive, smooth, peeling bark. The University of Hawaii’s weed profile (see the CTAHR invasive weed sheet) describes a tall shrub or tree up to about 20 feet with smooth, reddish, mottled, peeling bark and opposite, leathery, shiny, aromatic leaves up to 5 inches long. The flowers are white with many stamens, usually solitary in the leaf axils, and the fruit is about 1 inch across with white pulp in the red form.

It is a different species from the common guava (Psidium guajava): the leaves are smaller, thicker and glossier, the fruit is much smaller and the plant handles cooler weather better. There are two color forms. The red form is usually called strawberry guava or cherry guava; the yellow form, sometimes listed as P. cattleianum var. littorale, is called lemon guava or yellow strawberry guava.

Is strawberry guava invasive?

In many warm, humid places, yes. The CTAHR profile says pigs and birds spread the seed, that the plant forms “dense stands in pastures and forests,” tolerates shade, seeds prolifically and is reportedly allelopathic, meaning it may suppress other plants. It calls strawberry guava probably the most severe weed in Hawaiian rain forests. The seeds are small, hard and numerous and germinate at a high rate, though they stay viable for only a short time. The plant was probably introduced to Hawaii in 1825 and is now widespread in mesic to high-rainfall areas.

The Maui Invasive Species Committee (MISC) article on strawberry guava adds detail. Feral pigs were the main spreaders for about 30 years, eating mostly guava fruit from September to December, and seeds pass through them still viable. After pigs were removed from one valley, non-native birds kept spreading the seed, and young plants also spread by root sprouts. The article describes dense thickets with mats of feeder roots that allow only about 5 percent of sunlight into the understory and block regeneration of native trees such as ʻōhiʻa and koa, with nearly single-species stands covering thousands of acres on every major island. Trees fruit only below about 3,000 feet, but seeds can germinate much higher. MISC notes that the scale insect Tectococcus ovatus was identified as the best biological control candidate after about 20 years of research, but that public acceptance was the last hurdle; the article dates from 2011, so check the current status.

Invasive species note: The UF/IFAS Assessment of Non-Native Plants lists strawberry guava as invasive in south Florida (no recommended uses) and as “caution, manage to prevent escape” in central and north Florida. It is also a serious invader in Hawaii and other Pacific islands. Before planting, check your state and county invasive or noxious plant lists. Where planting is allowed, pick or collect all fruit so birds do not spread the seeds, and never plant it next to natural areas.

Where does strawberry guava grow?

Strawberry guava grows best in frost-free or nearly frost-free climates, roughly zones 9 to 11, and established plants usually survive brief light frosts better than common guava. Check your USDA hardiness zone with the growing zone finder, and your frost dates with frost dates by ZIP code. In colder regions it makes a good container plant that can spend winter in a bright, cool room. A contained plant that cannot set seed into the landscape is also the lowest-risk way to grow it.

How do you plant and care for strawberry guava?

• Sun: Full sun gives the best fruit; plants also grow in part shade, which is one reason they thrive under forest canopy.
• Soil: Tolerates sand, clay and poor soils as long as water drains. Mulch to keep roots cool and moist; the mulch calculator tells you how much to buy.
• Spacing: Allow 6 to 10 feet between plants for a hedge, or more for a single specimen. Use the plant spacing calculator to plan a row.
• Water: Water regularly the first year. Established plants handle short droughts but fruit better with steady moisture during flowering and fruit growth. The garden watering calculator helps with amounts.
• Fertilizer: Feed lightly in spring and summer with a balanced fruit-tree fertilizer; see our fruit tree fertilizer guide.
• Pruning: Prune after harvest to keep it as a compact shrub or hedge and remove suckers and root sprouts at the base so it does not spread.

Plant at the same depth the plant grew in its pot, with a hole about twice as wide as the root ball.

How long until strawberry guava fruits?

Plants grown from cuttings or nursery stock often start fruiting within two to four years, and seedlings may take a little longer. Strawberry guava is self-fruitful, so one plant can produce a crop. Main crops ripen in late summer and fall, with smaller flushes in warm climates.

When is strawberry guava ripe and how do you eat it?

The fruit is ripe when it turns fully deep red (or bright yellow for lemon guava) and gives slightly to gentle pressure. Ripe fruit falls easily, so pick every day or two during the season, which also limits seed spread. Eat the fruit whole, skin and seeds included, or scoop out the pulp. The flavor is sweet-tart and aromatic. Because the fruit is small and perishable, strawberry guava is often made into jam, jelly, juice or sauce; see our guide on how to make jam, and follow a tested recipe if you plan to can it.

How to keep a strawberry guava from escaping

If you live somewhere it is allowed, treat strawberry guava as a plant that needs a plan.

1. Plant it away from natural areas, streams, wildlands and neighbors’ unmanaged land, where birds can carry seed.
2. Pick every fruit. Collect fallen fruit daily and dispose of it in the trash rather than a compost pile, so seed does not sprout.
3. Grow it in a container on a hard surface, where seedlings and root sprouts are easy to spot and remove.
4. Pull seedlings early. Small plants come up by hand; large ones resprout from stumps and roots.
5. Do not dump yard waste in vacant lots or wild areas.

Removing established plants is harder. The CTAHR profile reports that triclopyr, dicamba and 2,4-D worked on foliage, frills and cut surfaces, and that basal bark treatments with triclopyr ester or 2,4-D ester were effective on dry days, while glyphosate was ineffective over the long term. These are herbicide uses that depend on the product label and local law, so ask your state extension service or invasive species committee before treating a large stand.

Container growing in detail

A pot is the safest way to enjoy strawberry guava outside the tropics, because you control the roots, can move the plant indoors for winter, and can catch seedlings before they spread. Choose a container at least 18 to 24 inches wide with drainage holes, and fill it with a fast-draining potting mix with some compost. Place it in full sun, water when the top inch or two of mix is dry, and feed lightly in spring and summer. Repot every two to three years or root-prune to keep the plant at a manageable size, and prune after harvest to keep it compact. In cold climates, move the pot to a bright, cool, frost-free place before the first freeze and water sparingly over winter. Keep the pot on a patio or deck rather than bare soil, so any fallen fruit and seedlings are easy to clean up.

Harvest and preserving tips

Strawberry guava fruit is fragile and ripens over several weeks, so plan to pick every day or two. Handle it gently, refrigerate ripe fruit and use it within a few days. For jam or jelly, simmer the whole fruit with a little water, strain out the seeds, then follow a tested recipe for sugar and processing times. The fruit can also be frozen whole on a tray and bagged, or blended into juice and sauce. Discard any fruit that shows fruit fly larvae, mold or a fermented smell, and never leave dropped fruit on the ground where it can feed pests and seed new plants.

Whichever way you grow it, keep a short log: the date of first flowering, first ripe fruit, how much fruit dropped, and how many seedlings you pulled. That record helps you judge whether your plant is staying contained, and it is useful information to share with your local extension office if you ever have questions about its behavior in your area.

Strawberry guava vs common guava

Common problems

Strawberry guava has few serious pests. The CTAHR profile notes that the fruit hosts fruit flies, so pick promptly and clear up drops. Scale insects and sooty mold sometimes appear on leaves; check with the pest identifier. Yellowing leaves in alkaline soil may point to a micronutrient deficiency, which the yellow leaf identifier helps narrow down.

What to grow instead

If you want a compact subtropical fruit tree with lower invasion risk, consider star fruit or citrus such as a mandarin tree, a kumquat or a Meyer lemon in a pot. Check your local invasive plant list for any non-native fruit you consider.

Frequently asked questions

You’ll find related varieties, pruning calendars and pest guides in the fruit tree hub.

Reviewed October 2026. Further reading: University of Hawaii CTAHR, Psidium cattleianum; Maui Invasive Species Committee, Strawberry guava; UF/IFAS Assessment of Non-Native Plants: Psidium cattleianum. Invasive plant rules vary; confirm locally before planting.